Cutting and stacking firewood can be a therapeutic experience. Stacking firewood especially gives me a sense of fulfillment and helps me put aside whatever is pressing on my mind and heart. In addition to expending wholesome energy, the visual and aromatic effect of organizing a wood pile is inspiring and uniquely satisfying.

A well organized pile of wood has significant value beyond any creative qualities you may discern. Whether you depend on wood to heat your home or entertain friends and family around your backyard fire pit, how you stack it will determine whether it seasons properly. In turn, that will determine what level of heat is produced, whether you have to use more or less wood to produce the desired heat, how much time and effort is needed to get the fire going, even how safe you are from creosote build-up.

Early on I learned the hard way that effectively stacking firewood is not as simple as it seems. If you “take the road less traveled by” and apply some proven techniques, you will enjoy a much smaller learning curve.

Consider first the condition of your firewood before deciding where to locate your stack. If the wood already is seasoned, protecting it from over-drying becomes a priority, so a shed or covered area would be best. If the wood is unseasoned, wet or green, build the stack where it will be most exposed to sun and wind. Keeping the stack at least twenty feet from your home is important in any case.

The condition of the wood also influences how to form or shape the stack. For instance, greater attention given to creating air flow is needed for green or wet wood.

Wherever you locate the stack, begin by preparing a base upon which to stack the wood. Laying firewood directly on the ground, cement or other surface will restrict air flow and promote rotting and infestation. I like to use 4 X 4 timber, but pallets, 2 X 4’s, and straight branches will suffice. Since firewood is usually cut about 18″ in length, the base planks should be positioned about 15″ apart to help form a solid foundation.

If you are concerned about termites, carpenter ants or other critters taking up residence in the wood pile, consider first treating the ground, with insecticide. It is not wise to burn chemically treated wood in the fireplace or outdoor fire pit, so do not apply insecticides directly to firewood.

Butting one stack up against another slows the seasoning process while aiding and abetting mold and insects. For that reason, stack firewood in single rows.

To the fun part. A decision is needed for how to secure the ends in order to keep the stack intact. Herein lies the mark of a good firewood stacker. There are several options. For example, two perfectly placed trees will do.

Or, a popular and effective technique is to build two vertical ends with firewood by crisscrossing alternate layers Lincoln Logs style. To ensure stability, care is needed in selecting and placing the pieces. It may take some searching, but each one should be straight with little or no taper, twisted grain or uneven sides.

A faster, perhaps less aesthetic technique is to drive one or two metal stakes into the ground to frame the ends of the wood stack. Given the length and depth of the stakes, you may have to limit the height of the wood stack.

Using one stake and some strong twine, you can create a more stable framework for the pile. Drive the stake into the ground to form one vertical end. With a piece of twine longer than the stack, tie one end to the stake and lay the rest along the last row that you finished. At the opposite end from where the stake was driven, loop the twine over the end log of the next row. Repeat the process every three or four rows. As the stack rises, the stake will be drawn tight to the rows and form a strong vertical end.

Still another way is to forget the stakes and wrap the twine around end logs at both ends of your stack. Done correctly, the pile will be quite stable.

Take whatever time is needed to ensure that the stack does not fall into a heap. In addition to being extremely frustrating, this can be very dangerous, especially if smaller loved ones cannot escape the avalanche. Taking care to keep sides straight and rows stable is well worth it. Until you are a seasoned firewood stacker, it is wise to build the wood stack no higher than four feet.

In building the wood stack, make each row as level as possible. Generally one end of a firewood piece is wider than the other. Placing the wider end on the low side of the pile is a good way to keep the rows close to level. Another thing you can do is look at the stack from one end and check the opposite side from where you are working to see if the pile is starting to lean. If so, the back end of a maul works well for tapping firewood pieces back in line, although it is hard to do this if there are several rows out of whack. Therefore, survey the stack early on and often.

Freshly cut firewood can have water content of 50% or more. 20% is needed in order for the wood to burn efficiently and safely. Therefore, building as much air flow as possible into the stack is important for the drying or seasoning process. In forming each row, do not wedge each piece tightly against the one next to it. Space enough for a mouse to pass but not a cat is the rule of thumb.

Bark has an interesting role to play as well. When stacking green or wet wood without covering, stack bark side up to prevent some of the rain from soaking into the wood. With covering, stack bark side down to dry the wood faster.

Whether or not to cover a wood pile is a matter of preference more than anything. Although I prefer leaving the stack uncovered at all times to allow the seasoning of the wood to unfold naturally, I am not sure it makes that much difference. At least as many people as not believe that covering the wood stack produces the best results. In very wet climates, I would agree with them.

If you prefer to cover, never completely cover the wood, which will rot rather than dry it. Best to leave the ends of the stack uncovered and the overhanging tarp at least a foot or so from the ground on the sides.

One other technique that works well for those wanting an easier way to build the wood stack is to purchase a heavy-duty firewood rack. Available in a wide variety of lengths and sizes, a well-made firewood rack with a corrosion-resistant finish removes the guesswork out of framing the wood stack. Furthermore, they look great.

Except for cleaning up the leftover chips and twigs, which when dry make great kindling, all that is left is to admire your handiwork. While you do, take time to sit back, smell the fresh wood, breathe the clean air, listen for the sound of birds or other wildlife, and read your favorite poem.

Chris Basher is the owner of www.FirePitNow.com, an excellent online home for outside firewood racks , wood splitters, outside fire pits and similar products. With its focus on customer service and well-made products, shopping FirePitNow.com is a pleasure. For additional information regarding choice and use of outside firewood racks , wood splitters and similar products visit his website at www.FirePitNow.com.

categories: stacking firewood,stacking wood,storing wood,seasoning firewood,drying firewood,green firewood,wet firewood,outdoor firewood racks,firewood,wood,fireplace,fuel source,home and garden,home heating